November South of the Border Style

On Halloween, I departed Portland heading for an overnight stay in Cancun with Brian, Frank, and Larry, my companions on the flights from Portland to Mexico. The other 14 anglers in our party left earlier in the day. Upon arriving in Cancun our party had a wonderful meal at a local steak/seafood house and went to bed awaiting the next day's subsequent transfer to Casa Blanca Fishing Lodge.

Sitting at the tip of the land known as "Punta Pajaros," Casa Blanca has established itself as one of the world's finest fishing lodges. Casa Blanca is located at the southern border of Ascension Bay, just north of the Bay of Espirtu Santo. It is part of the Sian Ka'an Biosphere reserve, a United Nations designated World Heritage Site, that covers 1.3 million acres of protected Mangrove forests and bays and miles of ocean flats.

Looking out the windows of the Cessna Caravan that carried us from Cancun to the lodge, once we passed Punta Allen...there was no human existence in sight, just mangroves and water...and then the plane slowed, the motor deadened, and the landing strip and the lodge came to view. Expectations were high...and we weren't to be disappointed.

Upon arriving at the lodge, we were shown to our rooms and then received the requisite welcome address, followed by a quick bite to eat. Ceviche and a cold beverage is always a nice way to be greeted. Staff members were gracious and welcoming...this was the theme all week.

OK, OK, what about the fishing? We had arrived on the heels of a "Northerner," a weather situation not at all common. The manager, Tom, spoke of being 'cautiously optimistic' when fishing was brought up. I was aware the weather had hampered the fishing of the previous week. The wind blew strongly through Saturday evening and waves crashed the shore, rods were rigged, casts were made from the pier...we all went to bed anxiously awaiting the morning.

When we woke up, there was not a cloud to be seen. We were treated to a picture-perfect, sunny, cloudless day with a slight breeze. This was to be the story of the week. Often at night we would have a stronger breeze and sometimes rain, but during the day very few clouds and the wind would die down. In fact I have never been anywhere else where the wind dies during the mid-day period...usually it is the other way around. Perfect conditions for sight fishing to the fish we were able to spot.

Permit and bonefish abound in these waters teeming with life. On our first day, the skiff hadn't slowed more than 2 pushes from the pole when I heard a whisper from the platform, "bonefish, 60 ft. 11 o'clock," Luis pointed out. I hadn't even stripped line off my reel yet. I have never been anywhere equal to the amount of life here. The water is always nervous, something is always moving, swimming, flying...jacks and barracuda crash baitfish in all directions. We saw osprey, flamingos, and gulls all cohabitating amongst the mangroves.

Bonefish were numerous and fish of all sizes were seen, I saw fish in the 6-8 pound range...and some bigger every day. Many permit were cast to...and 3 landed by the group. One angler went a tarpon shy of the Grand Slam. He cast off the dock into the darkness until midnight just to make sure his opportunity wasn't missed.

I can honestly say that Casa Blanca exceeded my expectations in every way. I'd like to express many thanks to the staff who made this trip truly special. From the guides, to Nito "el tequila diablo", and to management and the kitchen staff, I have never seen consistent service at this level.

Upon returning this past weekend, I have already been contacted by the members of this trip to schedule a return next year. I would like to offer the following dates for anglers wishing to join in:

October 31st to November 7th - Anglers to stay at Casa Blanca

November 7th - November 14th - Angler Couples to stay at Playa Blanca.

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